Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture SS’19 Is A Carousel Ride
Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture SS’19 has finally made its luxurious entrance ‘Sous le ciel de Paris’ -’under the sky of Paris’(*insert here the famous Edith Piaf song*).
For a young girl who dreams of waking up in endless meters of tulle fashionably wrapped around her fragile frame, gracefully stepping in her jewel buckle signature Manolo pumps and admiring the gardens of Versailles, the Haute Couture PFW edition certainly creates the perfect scenery for such a perfumed and opulent fantasy.
Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture SS’19 collections represent that time of the year when we are allowed to run freely through the designers’ fields of imagination.
For a small fraction in time, we are transported into a land of beauty, dazzling sparkles of craftsmanship and imaginative power.
The first day of PFW Haute Couture started with a show from the emblematic house of Schiaparelli. After its closing in 1954 and reopening in 2013-2014, this collection envisions a woman among the stars, a constellation of patterns and designs. Everything is very playful and energizing and yet so gently fluid in movement, almost in an extraterrestrial way.
The combination of bold colors and shy pastels created the splendid concept of the never ending voyage of self-discovery through constellations’ motifs and universe symbols.
Iris van Herpen
This is how the innovative field of technology intertwines with fantasy and fashion. Iris van Herpen is well known for her pioneering work in 3D-printing when it comes to the process of creating fabrics and garments. The ‘Shift Souls’ Collection emerged especially from the Japanese culture, the designer talking about being inspired by the human shape, its evolution and how it was portrayed and admired through mythology and time. It also depicts astrological patterns and symbols through layers of hand plisse-ed organza dresses.
Ralph and Russo
Paris Fashion Week is even richer in dimension, imagination and uniqueness because of Ralph and Russo. The two designers made a habit out of impressing the entire fashion world with exquisite pieces. And this occasion would not be an exception.
This year’s Haute Couture collection was a declaration of admiration and respect towards the feminine faces of Latin America. The entire show was based on the personality and legacy of the singer, actress and model María Félix, famously known as María Bonita or La Doña (because of her roles in the movies Doña Barbara).
The hats were a big part of the show, complementing the two piece blouse and pants suits. Embroidered dresses paired with medium length gloves, fuchsia trumpet taffeta dress, almost off-the-shoulder dresses and pistachio feathered one leg slit dress were the main focus points of the show.
The bride of the collection was the blonde beauty, Victoria’s Secret super model, Elsa Hosk. The bridal moment was a reflection of Mexican symbols, from the flower head piece to the ample skirt of the gown.
The Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture collection of Ulyana Sergeenko hides its meaning in the Russian history. The designer imagined a catwalk of powerful women inspired by specific folklore tales and figures. It was a forceful display of beaded gowns with robust shoulders, asymmetric embroidered lace waist corset and tailored skirts. I consider this collection a transposition of historical elements ( almost tsarist inspired I would say) into a modern tale of the reinvented woman who is not afraid to speak her words and to persuade everyone around her into following her vision.
As always, Georges Hobeika’s designs exude luxurious elegance, refined sophistication and feminine representation. And where to better showcase such a statement than at Paris Fashion Week?
Crystals, pearls and sparkling gems covered the bodies of the models. From feathered off-the-shoulders dresses to plunging neckline embroideries, the city of Paris was almost invaded by the most romantic and royal floral scents.
Paris Fashion Week hosted in its first day also the show of the house of Dior.
In a stylish and glamorous circus tent, Maria Grazia Chiuri created for Dior a new stage of magic and imagination. She integrated elements of playfulness, specific for the circus inspired theme, combined with polished simplicity. From lion tamer inspired suits to portrayals of acrobatic clothing, everything revolved around the world of spectacle.
Professionally trained acrobats opened the show in a warm, kind of 1900’s atmosphere, only illuminated by little gold lights. The models’ head accessories resembled to those of circus performers, only that the Dior ones were covered in sequins, having matched crystal detailed voalettes. The make up was also theme appropriate, as models had painted on their faces black teardrops-some more obvious, some more subtle.
Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Collection was a march of tulle high-low dresses, medium and large bows, high top hats combined with floral detailed dresses and feathers.
This collection kept the signature gigantic ruffled tulle gown which was so talked about after their previous show, however, now reducing the train a little bit.
Azzaro envisioned an Haute Couture collection full of sparkling sequins, prevailing the black and white theme. There were also velvet suits covered in crystals, off-the-shoulder jumpsuits framed with big bejeweled buckle belts, plunging neckline daring dresses and big metallic bow accessories.
Haute Couture collections also mean bold geometric shapes. Antonio Grimaldi very beautifully dressed the woman silhouette in sharp angles and semicircles. Even with such a prevalence of defined lines in the upper portion of the looks, the collection maintained its balance because of the light and fluid materials from the lower section of the designs.
It was all about forcefulness and power in gentleness.
After an entire day filled with marvels, the first step of PFW came to an end! I will talk to you again tomorrow, in a new post about Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture SS’19-Day 2!
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