A Parisian Épopée
In a gloomy Paris, with the bare and trembling trees framing the picturesque silhouette of Tour D’Eiffel, a glimpse of warmth and lighted hope appears on the barely noticeable horizon: it’s the start of the second day of Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture SS’19.
The line-up for today was impressing, starting with the classic tale of Chanel and stylishly ending with Givenchy.
Chanel
In the middle of the Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture edition, concealed in a white mantua of lustrous snow, the Grand Palais was the gleaming framework for an Italian oasis. The attendees stepped into the gardens of the ‘Chanel Villa’- a terracotta colored Italian mansion with stone blue opened shutters facing towards a garden filled with tall, carefully trimmed, Leyland Cypress trees. The villa, a background focal point, created the perfect directorial shift of attention against the core attraction of the show. A square azure pool enclosed by stone columns, ivory paths and luxuriant palm trees, invited the guests to let themselves carried away by this couture fairytale.
Leather rounded boat collar boleros paired with mid-length tulip dresses, intricate embroideries, hand-painted lace and shimmering sequined flowers enticed the eyes of the audience. The hair and make-up recreated the memory of an ostentatiously lavish lifestyle.
The central arcade’s door opened and a graceful, yet confident bride stepped outside into the Italian sun, on the melodious tones of the ‘Paroles, Paroles’ song. Vittoria Ceretti did not wear the classic wedding Haute Couture bridal gown, but a cut-out one-piece, opened back, swimsuit to match the torrid atmosphere of the Italian coasts. An opulent silvery crystals encrusted swimming cap had attached to it the never ending, also silvery, sparkling veil.
As the audience was appreciating the grand finale and waiting for Karl Lagerfeld to make his entrance, there was an even bigger surprise than the contrasting images of palm trees in the middle of a wintry Paris. The famous 85 year old designer was not feeling too well and decided to let the studio director, Virginie Viard, to enjoy the applauses.
Alexis Mabille
Alexis Mabille, who started his designer career as a trainee at Nina Ricci, Ungaro and then continued his journey under the close supervision of John Galliano for the house of Dior, also presented his vision during the second day of Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture SS’19 edition.
Over cotton candy colored catwalk strolled delicious shades of the rainbow spectrum. The designs were either following the silhouette’s lines or they impressed in volume due to the belle shaped pocketed taffeta skirts. From deep navy organza and satin dresses accessorized with dapper bows and upscale flower details, to the bumblebee yellow dramatic cape and cerulean feathered gown, the catwalk was a parade that led to the grand finale-a white dream of intricately detailed lace, angel like wings gently placed over a dash of tulle puffy shoulders, attached to a heart shaped net covered dress, continuing into a pleated fluid base.
Stéphane Rolland
The French designer chose as the location for his Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture show, the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées. The imposing double staircase made entirely by cold marble and the balcony view transformed the catwalk into an artistic dream.
The theatrical atmosphere (the designer worked during his career as a costume creator also) was furthermore maintained by the voluminous taffeta dresses, white organza belle sleeves and Victorian inspired crystal encrusted collars. Long silk scarves covered the head of the models who wore deep black eye make-up, reminiscing of the 1920’s decade. A modern touch to the show was implemented through orange and white patterned pants worn under candle glow yellow plunging neckline ball gown.
The bride wore a stunning satin deep-V décolletage jumpsuit. This vision was accessorized with a draping set of pearls and crystals placed exactly on the portion of her décolletage, maintaining the of image a pure lady. The veil was an exquisite skullcap piece made out of incredibly detailed lace, beautifully accentuating the simple, yet refined and bourgeoisie look.
Alexandre Vauthier
One of the most anticipated names of the Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture is the French designer Alexandre Vauthier. The couturier prepared for this year a display of feminine force combined in a mixture of sequins, structured taffeta bows, crystal encrusted belt buckles and tulle high-low bridal gown.
Of course, there had to be present the already famous, signature butterfly deep V-neck dresses, this time around expressed through a leopard pattern. Even though the volume of the designs was added in the upper part of the looks, as the puffer shoulders carried everyone’s attention during a big portion of the show, the designer made sure the look was complemented by a more toned down lower portion of the garments.
The aesthetics varied from ruffled organza blouses paired with black pants, enormous white satin bow as a top to a black sequined ultra short dress, to emerald green sequined body hugging dress matched with identical tights.
Giorgio Armani Privé
Harlequin inspired organza collars, triangle and diamond shaped patterns, this red and royal blue themed spectacle was nothing short of elegance and good taste.
A deep V tailored black blazer suit paired with a detailed red ruffles middle placed slit, red satin shoes, navy blue fringed small bag, was just one of the sophisticated looks of the Armani evening. The head accessories are also a worth mentioning accessory. 1920s headbands inspired skullcaps with long strings of colorful crystals and beads covered the models’ heads, as well as the wet looking sequined cone shaped hats.
Fluidity in movement was achieved through hand-sewn sequins, floral patches, candy apple red and cobalt blue feathered peplum midi length dresses, fringe skirts and paillettes.
This collection was a reinterpretation of the harlequin’s comedic and melancholic sides, transforming them into a story of refinement and elegance.
Givenchy
‘Bleached Canvas’ was the name of the Givenchy collection for the Haute Couture Spring-Summer’19. A pastel lavender pleated spaghetti strapped top, shaped like a butterfly, combined its fragility and allure with a pair of black pants.
It was a mixture of materials and craftsmanship that illustrated what this collection represents for the brand. From imperial gown over a latex red blouse, one shoulder fuchsia pleated peplum dress, to teardrop décolletage and multicolored fringes, the Givency Haute Couture collection was a demonstration of how a canvas is filled up by creative ideas and taken risks.
What did you think about the second day of the Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture edition? Did it lift up to your expectations, did it conquer them? Tell me in the comments down bellow and I will talk to you again tomorrow in a new post about Day 3 of PFW!
Kisses,
Letysse
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